Old School Repair: This Dude Welds A Crankshaft Back Together Like A Boss! It Was Broken In Two!


Old School Repair: This Dude Welds A Crankshaft Back Together Like A Boss! It Was Broken In Two!

If you watch videos from other countries, where guys are doing repairs that would seem nearly impossible without modern tools, you start to appreciate and understand what our grandparents and great grandparents were doing to make similar repairs. It’s a true testament to how good something can be even without CNC machines or what have you. In this video, the only equipment used to fix this completely snapped crankshaft is a drill press, a stick welder, and a lathe. The lathe isn’t anything new, but it does seem to work well, and the guy using it clearly knows what he’s doing. But the lathe could be 50 years old or 5, it’s all the same.

Watch as this guy cleans and machines each end of the broken pieces, which might actually be from two different crankshafts, slides them together, indexes them, and then gets his arc welding on. He then straightens the crank, machines the crank, and finally drills the oiling holes in it and then sends it on its way to be used in some truck or what have you. It’s impressive and you’ll dig it.

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Dyno Proven 500 Horsepower Combos: Three Stock Bottom End 5.3 LS Combos That Will Make You 500 Horsepower Or More.


Dyno Proven 500 Horsepower Combos: Three Stock Bottom End 5.3 LS Combos That Will Make You 500 Horsepower Or More.

I get asked about LS engine combos all the time, and the overwhelming majority of them are from people who think that they need to build an engine with all aftermarket parts. When I ask them how much horsepower they want to make, the vast majority say something like 450 horsepower. This makes me shake my head, because making 400 to 500 horsepower is simple and doable if you have a 5.3 LS that runs. Stock they make 350 horsepower, so anything you do from there will make real power improvements. A camshaft and headers will make over 400, and when you combine an intake, heads, etc, there are real power numbers to be had. And then there’s nitrous! Okay that’s another video, these are completely naturally aspirated combos that are based on a stock bottom end 5.3L.

Check out Richard’s combos, dyno results, and more in the video below.

Video Description:

HOW DO I MAKE 500 HP WITH MY 5.3L? DO I NEED FORGED INTERNALS TO MAKE 500 HP WITH MY 5.3L? CAN MY 5.3L MAKE 500 HP WITHOUT BOOST? WHAT IS THE BEST CAM TO USE ON MY 5.3L? WHAT ARE THE BEST HEADS TO USE ON MY 5.3L? WHAT INTAKE SHOULD I USE ON MY 5.3L? CHECK OUT THIS VIDEO ON THREE (3) DIFFERENT 5.3L BUILDS THAT NOT ONLY EXCEEDED 500 FLYWHEEL HP, BUT DID SO WITH THE STOCK BOTTOM END (STOCK BLOCK, CRANK, RODS AND PISTONS). ALL YOU NEED ARE THE RIGHT HEADS, CAM AND INTAKE (WITH HEADERS) AND YOU TOO CAN REACH THE 500-HP MARK.

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New Product Install: New Mid-Mount Gen III HEMI Front Accessory Drive – HEMI Swap Greatness!


New Product Install: New Mid-Mount Gen III HEMI Front Accessory Drive – HEMI Swap Greatness!

One of the most annoying and frustrating parts of any late-model engine swap can be fitting a bunch of accessories that never came in your car up front and in between the engine and radiator. Whether you realize it or not, almost all of the late model V8 cars are considerably larger than their previous counterparts. A new Challenger is bigger than a 1970 Challenger, for example, and so is the underhood space. These new cars are designed to fit around all the stuff that needs to be on these late model engines, and the older cars weren’t. Thankfully the gang at Holley has come up with the solution. Their new Mid Mount accessory drive system is a game-changer.

When Holley came out with accessory drive systems for the LS engine it made swapping one into just about anything much less of a headache, and now Mopar fanatics are going to benefit from the same technology. Their bracketless design means everything fits tight to the block minimizing any chance of interference between accessories and the chassis, body, etc.

Video Description:

Holley’s new Gen III Hemi Mid-Mount Accessory Drive Kits offers a simple, clean and reliable way to install all of the serpentine belt-driven accessories for your late-model Mopar engine onto our patent-pending bracket-less design. This allows the alternator, air conditioning pump, power steering pump, and everything else to be mounted tighter to the engine, making a Gen III Hemi swap an easier affair, regardless if you are using a VVT or non-VVT engine in your build! https://www.holley.com/products/engin…

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Project Binky Update: lt’s Back And It’s Badass, But Has Had To Have Some Tweaks

Despite being the most well thought out car build I’ve ever seen online, and also being finished to a much more show car level than anyone ever expected at the beginning of this whole project. And like everyone else online I’ve been super excited to see what’s in store and what progress has been made in the reassembly of this bad boy. Unfortunately there have been a couple of setbacks that are potentially a real problem, of the type you don’t want to deal with once a car is painted and ready for reassembly. But instead of looking at this as a negative, I look at it as reinforcement that when this happens to us normal people it doesn’t mean we suck.

Watch this latest video and if you missed any of this build before, then you need to dedicate your YouTube watching hours to this thing because it is epic in every way and will teach you things about how to build cars better. No, really, it will.

CLICK HERE IF YOU HAVE MISSED ANY OF THE PROJECT BINKY VIDEOS

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Junkyard LS Cam Test: Will The Same Camshaft Work With A Carb, EFI, Nitrous, Or Boost?


Junkyard LS Cam Test: Will The Same Camshaft Work With A Carb, EFI, Nitrous, Or Boost?

When it comes to camshafts there is never a shortage of opinions or available grinds. And one thing that I always find amusing is the “ideal conditions” world that so many hot rodders, racers, and tuners seem to think they are in, when in fact some very small percentage of them are in that place at all. If you are racing at very highly competitive, elite, or combination limited levels, where every single horsepower can make a difference between winning or losing, then having the perfect camshaft might be the difference over a weekend of racing. But if you aren’t in the small percentage of racers who find themselves in that position, then you open up a world that includes a lot of camshafts and engine components that will give you everything you need.

But do you have to have a different camshaft for your LS engine if you are running a carburetor instead of EFI? How about if you add boost to it? Richard Holdener has done the testing so that you can see the answers right here. Watch

Video Description:

DO YOU NEED A SPECIFIC CAM FOR BOOST? WHAT ABOUT FOR A CARB, FOR EFI OR FOR NITROUS OXIDE? WHAT IF I TOLD YOU THE SAME CAM WORKS ON ALL THOSE APPLICATIONS? HAS RICHARD LOTS HIS MARBLES? CHECK OUT THIS VIDEO WHERE I RAN THE SAME CAM ON A CARBURETED LS, A NITROUS LS, AN EFI LS AND A SUPERCHARGED EFI (GAS AND E85) LS. WHAT HAPPENED WHEN I RAN THE SAME COMP CAM DESIGNED FOR AN NA APPLICATION, ON ALL THESE DIFFERENT COMBOS? FULL DYNO RESULTS.

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Valvetrain Tech: If Light Weight And Low Reciprocating Mass Matter So Much, Do Stiffer Valve Springs Cost Horsepower?


Valvetrain Tech: If Light Weight And Low Reciprocating Mass Matter So Much, Do Stiffer Valve Springs Cost Horsepower?

 

Roller rockers, roller lifters, beehive valve springs, lightweight valves, lightweight locks and retainers, and the list goes on. These are all things designed to aid in controlling valvetrain at high rpm and under extreme power levels, and they do this by reducing the load required to move and control these components. So it would make sense that lighter valve springs would also be good for that. After all, anyone that has built an engine before knows that spinning the engine over by hand is very easy when it is just a short block and gets harder as you add components. If you have an engine with no spark plugs in it, and no rocker arms, then it is still really easy to spin by hand. But when you also have to turn the valvetrain, it becomes much more difficult.

So if you had an engine that didn’t “require” heavier valve springs, because it wasn’t going to be run at high rpm or didn’t have a camshaft that needed the extra valve control that heavy springs provide, would it make more horsepower with lighter weight springs that the others? Logic says yes. Or at least it seems like it does. But what does the dyno say?

Luckily for us, Richard Holdener knows because he’s done this very test and here it is so you can see for yourself.

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